Time is slipping away from me over here. I began this journey of knowledge, self-enlightenment, humanitarianism—however I decide to call it—more than sixteen weeks ago, but the past four months in Ukraine have disappeared faster than the last weeks of childhood summers. I mean the weeks here seem just an interlude between weekends—and the weekends…well, they’re only two days anyway. Sixteen weeks ago I emerged from a German giant of an aircraft into the warm Indian Summer of Kyiv, Ukraine jetlagged, optimistic and ready to really live. And now…well, I’m not jetlagged anymore.
What makes the time pass so fast here I can’t be sure. I spent the first twelve weeks in “Super Intense and Awfully Exhausting” Peace Corps Training, which involved four hours of Ukrainian Language class a day, 6 days a week…. almost 280 hours total. I’ve never used my brain in quite the same way, and though I’m nowhere near fluent, I can speak about a great many things in Ukrainian and understand almost everything people say to me—unless they’re speaking Russian or a Ukrainian/Russian mixture or other, numerous mixtures of Eastern European languages and dialects. Well, perhaps I can’t understand most people. My survival here, though, depends on my knowledge of this language and so I studied diligently for twelve weeks and was so completely and utterly wrapped up in learning to communicate with Ukrainian people that days turned into weeks, weeks—months, and quite suddenly, it seemed, I had completed my language training and was separated from my safe Peace Corps protection and set loose to speak to the people.
I lived those first twelve weeks in Borova, a small village an hour southwest of Kyiv, about 8,000 people and as old, run down and provincial as you can get. Most, or maybe all, of those people had never seen an American before—not outside their favorite crappy “horrible depiction of American life” television shows, anyway. I completed my Peace Corps Training Teaching Practicum in Borova School, No. 2. It was, by far, the worst work experience I’ve ever had. The children at this school understood nearly nothing I said to them in English, and though that seems plausible in a provincial Ukrainian town, please understand that English is a required course in Ukrainian Schools. Like history or Math in American schools, students are required to study English from 1st grade through graduation, and yet students in my 9th grade class knew nothing—and I mean nothing. Not surprisingly, my Ukrainian counterpart at that school, or “resource teacher” in Peace Corps lingo, knew about as much English as I know Ukrainian.
Then how can she be a teacher, one might ask. Ukrainian people center their lives on family—they surround themselves with family. Of course Ukrainians need jobs to have money to have a family, and they need skills to get these jobs, and her skill—as unrefined as it may be—is to teach English. Also, this particular school is without proper government funding and I expect the school would have preferred a more qualified teacher, but you take what you can get at the salary they are paying her. She worked at two other schools and taught private lessons at home just to make about $40 a month—not to mention raising her son. Consequently, she had a horribly depressing disposition, which I can’t blame her a bit for having. Unfortunately, her shabby English is obvious, and the minimal respect she received from her students seemed to disappear the moment I arrived and they saw her inability to communicate with me. Unfortunately, this lack of respect soon transferred onto me—though I do admit if I were being taught Spanish or French or any language by a teacher who spoke no English, my attention and patience with that teacher would quickly disappear. After just two weeks, students began walking out of my classes, or opting to talk and play cards or shout to me all the English they knew—yes, no, f*** you (of course they didn’t understand the meaning of that last one)—and of course they didn’t understand when I told them to stop and pay attention, and I couldn’t tell them in Ukrainian; I don’t know how.
So that was training, an extremely intense and trying twelve weeks that I am thrilled to have experienced, but am overjoyed to be done with. I did, however, live with a wonderful host family who were deeply religious and kind and taught me to live and survive in this new culture. And the seven young children I lived with helped me immensely to learn this new language. As I said about my time in Australia, and at Syracuse—about everywhere I’ve ever been perhaps—it’s not where you are but the people you’re with that make great moments in life, and I sincerely believe that about my time with my host family in Borova.
Ukrainians are the most hospitable people I think you can find in the world. In every Ukrainian house I’ve been in, I’ve been offered a full course meal and tea and coffee and vodka. I swear these are things Ukrainian people have ready at all times in case guests arrive—and I can say from living with two host families that guests arrive often. Ukraine is an ancient country and the traditions are many, and taken very seriously. If you receive guests in Ukraine you must offer them vodka or cognac or another alcohol to warm the soul—and your guests are obliged to accept it. And of course all the stereotypes we have about Russians and this part of the world drinking constantly are nearly true. I don’t think it’s about drinking and getting drunk, though, but rather about toasting to friendship and love and cultivating good relations between people. Ukrainians are very serious about this.
Ukrainians are also quite serious about religion, and follow the Julian religious calendar, which places Christmas on January 7th, after the New Years. Groups of children and families walk from house to house Christmas Caroling and seem to continue for nearly four days after Christmas. It’s quite wonderful really. Ukrainians also celebrate a holiday aptly Old New Years, on January 14th, which seems to me just an excuse to extend the Christmas season into the middle of January. But indeed, Ukrainians celebrate New Years twice.
And now on to the food. I’ve never eaten such good food, and so much of it, in my entire life. I’ve eaten more here in four months than I did in four years at Syracuse. You see, Ukraine suffered 3 famines in the 20th century—not to mention being torn apart by the Nazis in WWII—and so much of life here is uncertain. Ukrainians live for the day their in, for now—and good food and drink is something Ukrainians indulge in while they can. Nearly everything is homemade here. The milk is straight from the cow, the chickens are straight from the backyard, all vegetables and fruits are grown in the garden and canned in the summer for winter, all the bread is fresh and delicious, and all the wine—and even some of the vodka—is homemade. These people are so close to the earth I think it’s quite wonderful.
And now, my Mission. Why am I here, in Mukachevo, in Ukraine? I often ask myself. Here in Mukachevo people have nice houses and good food and seem to be very happy with the way things are. My students are extremely competent in written English and my colleagues in the English department here love their jobs. So, why do they need me? I ask myself next. The Ukrainian economy is in shambles right now—not surprising considering Ukraine seceded from the Soviet Union less than fifteen years ago and capitalism is still a new idea here. If Ukrainian businesses want to compete with the world, and especially if Ukraine wants to join the European Union, Ukrainians will need to know English. And not English from Soviet era textbooks and Eminem songs, but fluent conversational English.
Also, I’m giving a majority of the people I meet here their first experience with a foreigner, and I think I’m reshaping the way they think about the world and particularly the United States in a more positive way. Most Ukrainians here in Mukachevo, and I think nearly all Ukrainians in Borova and the many small villages around Ukraine, have never and will never have the opportunity to learn about anything outside of this city and those villages. It’s nearly impossible to get a visa for travel to the United States and abroad, and most people can’t afford it anyway. In fact, most people can’t afford any travel, and thus their entire sphere of knowledge merely encompasses the city or village where they live and what they can see on television. Ukrainians that know English, though, can become translators and participate in exchange programs with universities in Great Britain and the United States, and gain opportunities to leave Ukraine and see and experience the world, and then return and help others that live here to broaden their own knowledge of the world. Also, I think it gives many Ukrainians a certain self-confidence to think that I would want to leave the United States and come learn about their culture and their lives and live here for 2 years.
So that’s my story thus far. I’ve been here four months and have learned so much about this country and it’s people—and everyday I learn a little more about our own culture as my Ukrainian friends see it. I’ve learned to value more deeply the connections I have with family and friends as I am forced to go without them and make new ones here. I now appreciate in a meaningful way the difficulties of communicating solely in a second language and have a newfound respect for Americans, and all peoples, who do it everyday. And while time is slipping away here, I’m slowly but certainly fulfilling my Main Mission—to find my own perfect way to live.
Super wicked post, dude! Glad to hear that all is well in Ukr. I wish I could commiserate, oh wait, I can, I'm here, too. Riiiggght.
Posted by: Lindsay at February 15, 2004 06:36 AMI really enjoyed your post. I've never really been interested (specifically) to learn about Ukraine (of all places), but your entry really fascinated me. I'm excited to hear more about your endeavors, over the next year and a half. After spending only 1 month in Costa Rica, I've become really intrigued with spending time internationally. Though I'm sure my spanish will probably take me back to central america, I think we may encounter many of the same eye-opening experiences.... thanks for providing a window into Mukachevo -- the narrative is inspiringly global....
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