jpm: Nightwalkin'

May 23, 2006

Nightwalkin'

In my attempt to heed Bill Porter's advice-to hold off on the nitty-gritty of trail life and instead wax philosophically and comically about what the trail means to me-I've realized that the nitty-gritty of life on the A.T. might be just what you want.

What does Donkey (LOVE) eat out there? Where does he sleep? How much does he carry? What's a typical day like on the trail?

Well, because you asked for it (sort of), and to spice things up a bit, I'll tell you the not-so-typical tale of Hot Springs and my Mother's Day night-hike.

Hot Springs and I began the 13th of May at Trimpi Shelter (512.6 miles). It was a beautiful sunny morning-the first since leaving Damascus, VA four days earlier.

Breakfast that morning included two packets of instant oatmeal (the hot water came from my JetBoil) and a package of Poptarts. Breakfast of champions, maybe; breakfast of lightweight through-hikers, definitely.

The first 10 miles meandered gently through cow pastures and an abandoned farm-nothing too steep. The sun was warm, my pack was light (I was out of food), my feet felt fine and my spirits were high. Even more noteworthy, I was completely dry for the first time in days.

We arrived at Partnership Shelter (523.6 miles), which neighbors Mt. Rogers National Recreation Headquarters, around noon. The nicest shelter yet, Partnership boasted a shower and sink with hot water! And, because you can order pizza from nearby Marion, VA via a pay phone at the Mt. Rogers HQ, it is fondly referred to among through-hikers as the "Pizza Shelter." We'd been hearing about it, reading about it (in the trail registers) and dreaming about it for days. The Pizza Shelter-Mmmmmm!

Leaving our packs at Partnership, we hitched into Marion to re-supply our food bags. We needed food for five days. At two pounds of food a day, that would be 10 pounds of grub. Here's what I bought:

-peanuts, raisins and M&M's for GORP
-instant oatmeal packets and Poptarts for breakfast
-two sausage rounds and cereal bars for lunch
-mac and cheese, tuna packets and Lipton meals for dinner
-cookies and brown sugar for whenever
-more cereal bars for snacking
-fruit punch mix (water gets old after a while)
-cocoa

With heavy food bags slung over our shoulders, we coerced a ride back to the shelter from none other than the pizza delivery girl-she was already on the way to rescue some starving hikers! Hot Springs sealed that deal-good thinking, I thought.

Back at Partnership, we lazed away the rest of a sunny afternoon tossing the Frisbee and talking with friends. By sundown, though, we were ready for our night-hike. We'd heard rain was on the way, but when wasn't it? Our cohorts-enjoying leftover pizza and soda-watched amusingly from the shelter as we walked away into the night.

In the course of the next five hours, we would see rain and lightning and Hot Spring's headlamp would flicker out, forcing him to trail closely behind me. But then, the clouds cleared and we were treated to meadows and shadows of mountains illuminated by the full moon. The trail even went by an old abandoned one-room school. The door was wide open as we passed and a clock could be heard ticking, so I popped my head in to check the time-11:45 p.m.

At 1 a.m., the trail crossed Virginia Route 683 and ran beside an all-night truck stop. Blinded by the neon signs, we stopped for coffee, junk food and a two-hour rest. The old man behind the counter was happy to let us sit, and so we did.

At 3 a.m., with light drizzle coming down, we set off again, intending to camp at the first nice spot we found. But there were no spots, and 2.6 miles later we arrived at Davis Path Shelter (537.5 miles). Not wanting to wake anyone there, we pressed on in search, again, of a nice tenting spot.

But, our competitiveness and desire to see how far we could hike in one day (and night) got the better of us and we pushed on 11 more miles to Knot Maul Branch Shelter (548.7 miles). I arrived at 9:30 a.m. with Hot Springs not far behind. We were past exhaustion and too tired to celebrate our victory-35 miles in 24 hours! It was as much as we'd wanted to hike in two days. So, we rolled out our pads and sleeping bags and moved in to that shelter until the next morning.

Days later, we would meet people that asked, "are you the guys that were sleeping in that shelter when I came by for lunch?"

Indeed, we were.

The sunrise that morning was amazing-one Hollywood can't capture. We walked by grazing cattle and across beautiful pastures. For this, I'm glad to have pulled an all-nighter in the woods-but not again, I don't think. It was too tiring.

As for the things I carry (to borrow loosely from Tim O' Brien's Vietnam War memoir), I've got:

-Osprey Atmos 50 pack and rain cover
-Marmot Trestles 30 sleeping bag
-MSR Hubba tent
-Mountain Hardware gaiters
-Leki Ti Luam trekking poles
-Jetboil stove with one spare fuel canister
-Icebreaker wool long underwear
-Sportif USA fleece pullover
-EMS long-sleeve
-Mountain Hardware Mountain Kilt
-Columbia Omni-Dry T-shirt
-two pairs of wool socks, one pair liner socks, one pair waterproof socks
-EMS DryRiver boots
-Aqua Mira water purification system
-Mountain Suds soap
-toothbrush and toothpaste
-binoculars
-Mountain Hardware fleece hat and EMS gloves
-Terramar quick-dry boxer briefs
-Marmot Precip rain gear
-Holey Soles rubber camp shoes
-Thru-Hikers Handbook (Dan "Wingfoot" Bruce, 2006)
-The Firm by John Grisham (for now, anyway)
-food bag
-first-aid kit and sunscreen
-Leatherman Juice tool
-Platapus 2 liter water bag, 1 liter Nalgene bottle and spare Gatorade bottle
-Thermarest air pad
-Petzl Zipka headlamp
-Osprey beer cozy (Trail Days gift)

With a full bag of food and one liter of water, I carry about 35 pounds.

So, until next time, Donkey (LOVE) is in Pearisburg, VA and heading north.

Posted by jpm at May 23, 2006 03:23 PM

Comments

Thanks for keeping us up-to-date on your travels. Truly sounds like an amazing experience. Glad to hear Hot Springs' pizza business background came in handy for you!! The boys are all set to meet up with you as they think eating pop-tarts all day sounds fantastic! Guess they forgot to read about the 35 lbs on your back! Kat and I will hang back here in SF and read your posts with pride for what you and Corey are doing. We miss you both very much and can't wait to see you!! Lots of Love!

Posted by: Lis Petkevich at May 23, 2006 04:07 PM

wow--you totally wear a more varied selection of clothes on the AT than at any point during your peace corps service...MOLODETS! now hike to denver and pay us a visit.

much love,

nick & raejean

Posted by: Nick at May 23, 2006 04:10 PM

You've got a kilt!? Is that like the kind you can wear? hmm, I'll have to see you in that some time. Maybe I can get you to wear it when you hit PA. Speaking of which, please let me know when you know exactly when and where you'll be....I'm a working girl now and I may have to be working when you pass through. hopefully not. miss ya J xoxo

Posted by: Liz at May 23, 2006 04:10 PM

Hi BoooBoooo, is Granite State Nate from NH? Sounds like it.
Have you lost weight? Maybe I should walk 2,100 miles.
Wonderful,
Love Auntie M

Posted by: aunt martha at May 23, 2006 09:06 PM

Hey Lis, I am Jordan's Aunt Martha, from NH,but I am going to SF,CA tomorrow.
Daughter is graduating from SFS on 5/27.

Posted by: aunt martha at May 23, 2006 09:07 PM

I really hope you actually have a kilt. Do you bound through fields yelling 'freedom'? I saw Sean Stevenson last weekend and he asked if you really were on the trail, like he had heard. I said yes, and he said 'wow. Jordan's cool'. So there, you're famous.

Posted by: Heron at May 25, 2006 08:29 AM

Hi, guys-
I tried to post a message a couple of days ago but it didn't take. Many questions. . . Why "Hot Springs?" Did you make it to Dasmascus for the jamboree? Did you recover from your night walk? (Take it from the voice of experience - you do not want to be bad to your knees)!
Weather finally turned beautiful here - and the black flies are bound and determined to enjoy it!

Much love, Mom

Posted by: mom at May 27, 2006 05:50 PM

Hi Jordan, yes as we all know the black flies are in NH,just waiting for us to return to the eaast coast.
SF is fabulous, we are o the 101 heading from SF to Portland,OR.
Hope all is well. We are having a fun time.
Write to me!!!
Love, Aunt M

Posted by: aunt martha at May 30, 2006 04:01 PM

My Boy Scout troop was just recently hiking with 'Good Times Charlie' who you mention here, and we provided him and some of his friends with transportation to a restuarant called the Homeplace near Dragon's Tooth, and when we got home we found that we had an extra pair of hiking poles and we were wondering if Charlie or one of the people with him had left the poles; so if you happen to run into him agian on the trail after you check this page and he is missing some hiking poles could you please give him the phone number of 434-525-8030 so that we can get his hiking poles back to him. And good luck on your own hike!

Thank you,

Danny, Boy Scout Troop 10, Lynchburg, VA

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